Baron Fuenté Quinconce Blanc de Blancs Champagne, 75cl

Baron Fuenté is a family-run grower house in the Marne valley, making Champagne from its own fruit at Charly-sur-Marne. The Quinconce Blanc de Blancs comes from a single parcel - Chantemanche - planted entirely to Chardonnay, the name nodding to the quinconce, the staggered way the bottles are stacked to age.

Two things set it apart. It's vinified partly in stainless steel and partly in oak, and built around a perpetual reserve - a continuously topped-up library of older wines that adds depth and consistency. Then it rests seven years in the cellars, far longer than most Champagne at this level, drawing out a rich, gently toasty character.

The result is a Blanc de Blancs that's charming and generous rather than austere: exotic fruit, apple and wild peach, acacia flowers, a twist of candied lemon, and a mineral backbone that keeps it fresh. Serve chilled, around 7-8°C.