Kleine Zalze Family Reserve Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch (2022)

Kleine Zalze is one of Stellenbosch's benchmark names for Chenin Blanc, and the Family Reserve is its flagship - the wine the cellar pours to show what the grape can do at the top end. The fruit comes from heritage vineyards of old bush vines near False Bay, certified under South Africa's Old Vine Project, which recognises vines of 35 years and older.

What sets this apart is the cellar work. The juice is fermented and aged across three vessels at once - older French oak barrels, Italian terracotta amphorae and concrete eggs - with no new oak, so nothing covers the fruit. Each element pulls in something different: the old wood gives dimension, the clay brings brightness and lift, and the wine spends months on its lees, unfined and unfiltered, before bottling. The result is texture and depth without weight or oakiness.

It pours full and bright, with white peach, quince and citrus pith over a subtle floral note and a long, distinctly mineral finish. Rich but taut - a serious, savoury style of Chenin built to age. Serve cool, not cold, around 10-12°C.