Ciacci Piccolomini Rosso di Montalcino (2024)

Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona is one of the most admired names in Montalcino, an organically farmed estate in the warm southern corner of the zone at Castelnuovo dell'Abate, run by the Bianchini family. Its Brunellos are regional benchmarks; this Rosso is the same hand and the same Sangiovese, released young while the Brunello waits in the cellar.

It's 100% Sangiovese Grosso, off the estate's vineyards on mineral-rich, marly soils. Fermented in stainless steel and concrete, then rested for a year in the estate's large old Slavonian oak casks - the traditional Montalcino approach, where the big format gently rounds the wine without layering on oak spice. The aim is freshness and finesse over weight.

Expect wild cherry and crushed berry, rosemary and a savoury, stony, faintly olive-tinged edge - cool-toned and silky, medium-bodied, with the fine tannins and bright acidity that mark good Sangiovese. Approachable now but no lightweight. Serve at 16-18°C.